Hi Neil and welcome aboard!
I think superglue is overkill for most of the building process. A lot of us use some type of waterproof glue. Titebond III is a good one. Elmer's makes a waterproof carpenter's glue as well.
It needs to be waterproof so that when you weather the wood with waterbased paints or different washes, the glue won't break down.
I use Formula 560 Canopy glue most of the time. It looks a lot like regular Elmer's white glue, but it's thicker and it's waterproof but mostly becuase because it sets up quicker. You can find it at most hobby shops and online:
http://www.amazon.com/ZAP-Formula-560-Canopy-Glue/dp/B0006O8EVM

Hi Neil,
I use Aileen's Tacky glue, Formula 560, and CA for some metals, as well as Titebond III, these all come into play, but I use the Aileen's I get at Michal's arts and craft stores the most. Clear drying is always good. I like the Aileen's because I can still position the pieces a bit before it sets up. I love the Formula 560 for windows, although on Brett's kits I tam going to try to use the clear window material sheets that come in the kits.

Todd

Generally I always use just regular wood glue.

When I'm feeling impatient, (most of the time) I'll add a drop or two of 'cyano....' to instantly hold larger things together, (like walls or roofs) while the wood glue is curing. I find this much better for me personally than physically holding things together for ten minutes while the wood glue dries. Especially on a 24 or 48 build.

It takes a good prolonged soaking of regular wood glue to disolve and break a bond after it has fully cured. I use this method when scratch building repetative parts, such as corbels to separate them.
But, I've rarely had a problem with things de-glueing due to simple weathering and washes.

Remember, water RESISTANT is different to water PROOF, soak/wet it long enough and it will come apart, dependant on the glue used, but that will take alot of moisture.

The best advice I can give is to use the recommended glues in the manual. Those specific methods and products have been tried and tested over many years, by many modellers, with consistantly excellent and dependable results.

Karl.A

Hi Neil
I live in the UK and have always used Anita's Tacky Glue obtained from Hobbycraft or The Range - both have stores all over the place. It comes in a very handy dispenser and grabs within a couple of minutes and dries clear. It's always a problem to overcome the description in the States to actually find what is meant or obtainable over this side of the pond - Isopropyl Alcohol was one that used to defeat me until l went into the chemist and he just said oh you mean what we call Surgical Spirit - l still don't know for sure if it's correct but the main thing is it works with the chalks etc!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Alan

I use alcohol to dissolve the Elmer and wood glues. It works pretty quickly and doesn't seem to affect the wood and paint. As for glues, I've found that the Titebond dark wood glue is great for gluing pre-stained wood pieces. It also works great to make "tar" beadings around smokejacks and chimneys. No painting required once it has dried. Sorry, I'm away from my workbench or I'd send some photos as examples.

Scotch Quick Dry Adhesive is my glue of choice! It is low cost ($3 or $4) and easily found at most home centers. Dries Clear, acid free, tacks very well, nice applicator tip, and is bulletproof. If you try it you will see.

Hello everyone,
Just started building Crafty kits, but I've got lots of glue (super glue gel, 560, micro glaze, and blar blar blar) but this is my favorite.

My wife says that when my glue collection catches up to my paint collection i,m in trouble... lol

Happy building

I use the gorilla wood glue also. It works great.

I USE A FAST DRYING WHITE GLUE I SHIP IN FROM AUSTRALIA CALLED RAPI-BOND.
BEEN USING IT FOR OVER 10YRS WITH GREAT RESULTS.